Couture newcomer Robert Wun on selling to the super rich

Born and lifted in Hong Kong’s industrial district Fo Tan, Wun examined womenswear at the London School of Fashion in advance of launching his namesake label in 2014. An undisclosed London-primarily based investor, who has backed various other vogue brands, assisted to kickstart Wun’s label with £100,000. Hong Kong luxury style retailer Joyce was its very first stockist. In 2021, Wun’s sister, who operates in promotion, acquired the investor’s stake, generating the label now a wholly family-owned small business. His sister continues to be a silent partner. 

The pandemic was a turning issue. All through that time Wun shed his grandmother she inspired his Autumn/Winter season 2021 selection, which was “closer to his heart” than previous collections. Titled “Armour”, it showcased sharp pleats and remarkable flares. There were being also swallow chook facts – an ode to his grandmother’s favourite chook from Hainan, exactly where she is from. “I didn’t think about who would acquire it or dress in it. I just needed to make something as a tribute to her.” The psychological approach paid out off, having said that, and the designer says he received a large amount of tailor made orders that year. He noticed an chance to pivot to a far more sustainable and expense-successful on-desire design. “We realised that it was a improved way to function than undertaking wholesale,” he claims. 

Couture 7 days: A high priced but important step

Wun’s forthcoming debut at Paris’s haute couture week was created feasible by the €100,000 he gained as the winner of the 2022 Andam specific prize — an award formerly won by designers which includes Bianca Saunders, Glenn Martens of Y/Task and Christelle Kocher of Koché. Sixty for each cent of the grant will go towards earning the collection and staging the show. The other 40 for each cent will be invested in company operations. Despite the higher expenditures, Wun believes that “it is an investment that is well worth it. This is a important stage for the brand to be legitimised and for me to step out of my consolation zone as properly.” 

Couture is assorted in its small business measurements and products. The designers presenting in Paris this week vary from the set up ateliers of Dior and Elie Saab that have been stitching gowns for generations, to lesser professionals these as Alexis Mabille and Stéphane Rolland, who deficiency significant promotion budgets but have common rosters of global purchasers. Wun plans to keep his couture clearly show personal by presenting his designs to about 150 attendees in a hotel on Area Vendôme. The designer is restricted-lipped about the assortment, but says that it harks back to his early insecurities and self-doubt. “I captured that feeling and turned it into what this selection is about.”

Go through Extra

Inside of Cecilie Bahnsen’s non-public shopper small business

The Copenhagen-primarily based designer, recognised for her voluminous attire, has a new headquarters that for the 1st time will host non-public shopper appointments — a expanding and newly vital portion of the company.

Image may contain: Furniture, Table, Chair, Interior Design, Indoors, Wood, Dining Table, and Plywood

Haute couture gives a extra defined audience and an clear elite distinction for designers, but only individuals permitted by the organising human body, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Method (FHCM), are capable to get component. There are presently 16 haute couture maisons qualified by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and the French minister of market. Wun is using section this year as a guest member, owning gained a unanimous inexperienced mild from all 33 board associates. “There are several candidates for starting to be visitor customers and only a modest range of them can be selected,” suggests Pascal Morand, government president of FHCM. “Robert Wun has a wonderful and recognised expertise that was awarded by Andam. He has a specific ability to develop and participate in with volumes, sculpt new shapes, and to visualize the long term and innovate.”